Our weekend away

Last weekend Amanda and I had decide well I had decided we maybe need a weekend break a few weeks before so I had a quick look round I feel comfortable driving to Northumberland now so I decided we choose there after some looking around I found a caravan for a good prize and for 3 nights it would be a great base. It is was a bit further north near the border with Scotland so I looked at places where Amanda and I could visit we  popped into Alnwick were I Used live on the way up after an early start managed a few hours there before we got in our caravan . I brought a few books in the new bookshop there the accidental bookshop. which had a great book shelf which reminds me of the one in Ryan Holiday ( daily stoic love his podcast etc)

I will be doing a post soon on the books I got I love this new shop I missed out Barter books as we had to get to the caravan and have  something to eat so we arrived and the site was nice had a lake our caravan was basic but clean and roomy for just the pair of use. I had a few places in mind for the next day we eventually decided on North Berwick which I  had never visited. It has a large hill that shelters it Ihad research most places I wanted to go watch a few you tube videos and read up on what was there. Our first stop was the steampunk coffee shop

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That had this great bike just by where we sat and I also got some coffee here and a funky sticker for my MacBook. We walked along the beach then went to the Harbour saw Bass rock which has the largest colony of gannets in the world

Bass rock there was boat rides there it was also there we could see across to Fife where my Aunt lives in a fishing village so near yet so far. We then had a walk around the lobster hatchery that is helping get Lobster back in the local waters. Then to the Scottish sea bird centre

They had a wonderful spair of statues one of Penguins and this of an arctic tern we went in read about Bass rock and the Gannets there was a cafe we had another coffee and some Cake looked out at the harbour and the birds. We then head back into the centre of North Berwick

As we head out of the seabird centre that had this further statue called the watch it remind me a little of TinTin something in the hair and stance maybe that is just me. we then passed this as it was the weekend before the Queens funeral.

I love crochet bombs like this they always make me smile as it is great people take time to make them and put them there for all to see we had an gelato well I did mmm blood orange and Belgian chocolate (yes I  love to eat whilst away ). I brought a couple of books in the Oxfam which I Weill show at a later date we had scene a nice print but it was a little to much when we saw the price shame but we are find another print for our house. we had a   nice lunch then returned to the caravan. We had already decided on the Sunday to go the Scottish museum of flight which we both like when we saw it was near as it had Concorde there

Which I had never seen when flying so it was great to go and look on board it is really small in side. There was a lot about the crash and the devolpment of the plane there was also a red arrow in the same hanger the museum had a number of commercial planes you could go on and exhibits of other planes Both civil and ,military but the one plane I had want to see was the Vulcan.

I grew up in Cheshire where this plane was made and serviced at British aerospace as it was then but Avro when the plane was made this used pass over me as a little boy at school so close it made you shake as we were a couple of miles from the runway so this was a flashback to that see this giant plane pass over me as a kid. (I also had nimrod and other military planes pass over me as a kid but the Vulcan is so iconic) . IT took us most of the day we had drinks and lunch there and ten head home to the caravan packed as it was the queens funeral next day so we want to get off earl we head off after a wonderful few days in a part of the country I want go back to the East Lothian and borders of Scotland is a hidden gem.

Have you a place in you think is a hidden gem maybe off the beaten track not as popular to visit ?

 

Andrej Nikoladis on Thomas Bernhard

Author on Author Montenegrin author, Andrej Nikolaidis, talks of his love for the Austrian writer, Thomas Bernhard.

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The first book by Thomas Bernhard that I ever read was “Der Untergeher” – ‘The Loser’. That was in the early nineties, when war was raging across what was once Yugoslavia, and very soon after the forced migration of my family from Sarajevo to the relative safety of Montenegro, where I still live to this day.

At that time, Montenegro was a troubled place of unprecedented hyperinflation. The central bank would regularly print new batches of notes worth 100 billion dinars, with which you could only pay for a coffee in one of the many bars that were crammed with men dressed in the uniforms of irregular soldiers; those who had just come back from the war in Bosnia and those who were on their way there. And this was despite the fact that the Hague Tribunal for War Crimes repeatedly insisted that Montenegro and Serbia did not participate in the war in Bosnia and Herzgovina!

The average wage in Montenegro at that time was 3 German Marks, which today would probably be the equivalent of about £1.50. I just want to illustrate that in those days I didn’t even have enough money to join a library, let alone buy a book. I cannot even remember how I came by a copy of ‘The Loser’, but whoever lent it to me didn’t get it back. ‘The Loser’ still sits on my bookshelf today, together with the other translations of Berhnard that have been published in Bosnia, Croatia, Montenegro or Serbia.

Bernhard writes about society in collapse: society rotten with dishonesty, corruption and deep-rooted lies. Montenegro at that time was just such a society. The narrator of the story is caught up in a fundamental battle with that society, just like I have been in conflict with Montenegrin society since the day I arrived here. In the end, Bernhard’s narrator understands that his conflict with society is an externalization of an inner conflict: that his true enemy with whom he must fight to the death, is in fact his own existence. And that is what I understood, too.

‘The Loser‘ remains to this day, my favourite of Bernhard’s books, more so even than ‘The Cellar’ (Der Keller), in which I believe the final part (from the line ‘One day three of four years ago…’ to ‘That is all,’) to be the finest piece of prose ever written. Those final five pages of ‘The Cellar’ seem to me to be definitive evidence that it is possible to write dark, existential prose with poetic beauty.

In Bernhard’s opus, I have never found a reference to Paul Celan (although it is possible that I overlooked it), and yet I believe that in one fundamental way, Bernhard’s work is a prose response to Celan’s famous poem ‘Fugue of Death’ (‘Todesfuge’). We are reminded by the rhythm of Celan’s poem, just as the title itself states, of the ‘Art of Fugue’ by J. S. Bach, to which Bernhard’s prose also owes it rhythm. I believe it would not be unfair to say that without Bach there would not be Bernhard.

Celan’s poem searches for the roots of the Holocaust, what was it in the German culture that allowed the possibility of that indescribable horror?

“There’s a man in this house who cultivates snakes and who writes who writes
when it’s nightfall nach Deutschland your golden hair Margareta
he writes it and walks from the house and the stars all start flashing he whistles his dogs to draw near
whistles his Jews to appear starts us scooping a grave out of sand
he commands us to play for the dance…”
(translated by Jerome Rothenberg)

What does a man write from his home? Philosophical essays? Prose pieces? Notes? To which tune do the Jews dance in their sandy graves?

Line by line, page by page, Bernhard digs down to the very last notes of the great composer, to the most subtle combinations of colour of the great artist, to the last punctuation point of the great writer, while posing the same question to his countrymen: Austria – how was this possible? Only to arrive at the most terrible of conclusions: it is still possible.

The last years of Celan’s life read very much like something from Bernhard’s prose. Celan’s illness, his frequent stays in hospitals (which reminds us of ‘Wittegnstein’s Nephew – “Wittgensteins Neffe, Eine Freundschaft”). His visit to Heidegger, from whom he expected so much and received so little (in line with Bernhard’s principle that ‘’one should write comedy as tragedy and tragedy strictly as comedy’’).

Paul Celan ended his life with suicide, like many of Bernhard’s characters (in ‘The Loser’, ‘Yes’, ‘Concrete’, etc.). He threw himself into the Seine on April 20th, 1970, and his body was retrieved from the river ten days later.

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Andrej Nikoladis ,is published by Istros books in the uk I have reviewed The coming by Him here ,He has a new book due out from Istros later this year The son a sort of follow up to his last book his profile is here on Istros books and you can order his books here as well .Many thanks to Andrej for this He wote it over a weekend for me and Susan from istros translated it too english for me and Andrej approved this translation .

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